I saw a lot of rubbing here from insufficient lubrication. Pay particular attention to the area where the release bearing slides on the input shaft cover. It turned out ok as I was able to manhandle it to the ground.26.Pull the tranny away from the car and clean it up. I got scared for a second when the transmission came off the engine and tried to slide off the jack. Be very careful as you lower it to the ground. 25.The transmission should slide off the engine pretty easy at this point. When it breaks free place a couple of floor jacks under it to support it. Use a large flat screw driver and start prying the bell housing away from the engine. 24.Make sure one last time that no cables or wires are attached to the transmission. Remove all motor mount bolts, front, side and rear. 23.Remove the bolts and nuts on the cross member under the engine. There are (2) 17mm bolts on the top, trans side and (4) 14mm bolts on the sides on the motor side. There is no snap ring retaining it in the transmission.22.Make sure the motor is well supported by the motor lift and pull out all of the bell housing bolts. When I pulled the transmission off the engine it slipped right off. Note that I did not have to remove the passenger side drive axle. Unfortunately my CV joint separated and only the axle part came out. Turned out I did not have to remove it anyway, more on that later.18.Disconnect tie rod from end of steering knuckle.19.Remove the bolts on the strut and pull them out completely.20.Remove the 3 bolts attaching the lower suspension arm to the steering knuckle.21.Pull the entire steering knuckle and axle shaft completely out of the transmission. I was told that I would have to remove the 30mm nut from the axle end, but in the end I could not get it off with the cruddy air impact gun I had. Remove the bolt that attaches the ABS sensor to the hub. One of the bolts is on the bell housing/transmission side.16.Remove the left front brake caliper and wire it out of the way. I used a several feet of VERY HEAVY nylon rope to do this. Just set it aside by the firewall.13.Remove shifter brackets top and rear of transmission.14.Attach hoist to engine. There is no need to break the hydraulic connection. Remove the air cleaner bottom.12.Disconnect slave cylinder and brackets. Remove them and be sure and mark where they go for later reference. I’ll fix it right one day.11.There are several brackets that hold the various hoses, wires, etc in the engine compartment. I just plugged off the hose, it did not seem to make any difference in how the car ran later. I ended up breaking the nipple off when I did it. Be very careful and pull off the vacuum hose from the nipple. There is a small vacuum accumulation chamber on the back of the lid. Use some proper 6mm bolts to attach it later.7.Remove the 2 screws holding the vacuum control relay on the front of the air cleaner lid.8.Unplug all the connectors to the air cleaner lid.9.Remove air cleaner to throttle body hose.10.Pull off the other vacuum control relay from the back of the air cleaner lid. Toss the cruddy plastic clips that hold it on. 5.Remove the battery, tray and support.6.Remove the driver side splash shield from under the car. If you don’t have a Miata available go hit the junkyard. The one I stole off my 96 Miata would not fit here so I put it on the rear of the engine. You have to use this lift eye because it is the only one that will fit. You will see an empty threaded hole right above the alternator. I took the one off the back of the engine and bolted it to the provided spot on the left front corner of the engine head. I guess they had to remove it in order for the cool engine cover to fit. 4.The 2ZZ engine does not have a front engine lifting eye from the factory. Remove the front wheels.3.Remove from the engine the plastic cam box cover. Be sure and mark the hood hinge where it meets the hood so that you can reinstall it in the correct position later.2.Jack up the car and support it with jack stands. Now that that legalese is out of the way let’s get after it….1.Remove the hood. The writer takes no responsibility for a damages or personal injury resulting from using these instructions. It would go much easier if you have a helper. There will be only one engine motor mount attached when you pull the tranny out. You do need to support the engine as 3 of the motor mounts attach to the transmission and they need to be removed to pull the transmission. You do not have to remove the engine to do this job, or have any special Toyota tools. It was really not has hard as I thought it would be, but I would not recommend this procedure if this is the first time you have ever done a clutch change on anything. After reading many incomplete strings on how to change the clutch I decided to try it on my own and write about it.
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